Mexican war, Leather, Brogans, shoes, bootees, boots, socks, insoles, oil, wax, Confederate shoes, Federal bootees, shoe laces, 1822 pattern bootee

C & D Jarnagin Company

Footwear

We have handcrafted shoes in our work shops here at C & D Jarnagin for over 20 years. Our shoes are hand made of oak tanned American leather. Our shoes are made by time proven patterns and sewn with linen thread. Our footwear has delivered countless miles of satisfactory service. Judging from the shoes received by our repair service, nothing holds up like our shoes.

Leather Preservation Please follow this link for more information on the care and feed of leather.

New Period Finish

I have been doing a lot of leather tanning research in the last couple of years and have in doing so I come across some great spots of information. Recently I found a period recipe for a period shoe finish. I mixed up the recipe and have tried it. I have been amazed by the results, so now we are offering a period shoe finish on our entire line of shoes for an extra charge of $45.00 to cover the extra work. This is a super finish but it will only be offered on black shoes.

D.M. Winters shoes with period finish

#JS6030 Jefferson shoe $295.00

These are copied from a drawing of the shoes Thomas Jefferson wore at his inauguration in 1801. These are a shoe that comes 2” above the ankle, as described in a book on riflemen printed in 1812. This must have been a common type of work shoe since I have seen styles similar as early as the mid 1700’s. These are listed as shoes sometimes and other as boots, but the truth is they are bootee which means taller than a shoe but shorter than a boot. These would have been made with a welted and sewn sole since pegged sole did not come in till 1818. We do not make these shoes in smoothout. These are offered in the correct waxed leather or rough out finished to look smooth.

1840's militia regulation for the State of South Carolina called for a shoe that was 2" above the ankle so Jefferson shoes may have stayed with many states for the militia footware.

Available in Black

Available in Size 7 through 12 and Half sizes 7 1/2 through 11 1/2

Item number	Shoe options	Price
	TRIPLE E WIDTH (This can only be done of Right and Left lasts)	$28.00
	Made on right and left lasts	$28.00

#601522 1822 Bootees $360.00

In 1822 the US army switched from a low shoe to a taller version to end the need for the half gaiters. There is no evidence that this shoe was replaced as the standard until 1851 when the Jefferson bootee began production. New research leads us to believe that this is the true Mexican war bootee. This is lower mid calf bootee having 8 lace holes. These are offered in straight last welted and sewn sole as the originals. As all of our shoes, these are hand made of high quality leather.

Available in Black (Smooth out or Rough out)

Available in Size 7 through 12 and Half sizes 7 1/2 through 11 1/2

Item number	Shoe options	Price
#6015223E	TRIPLE E WIDTH (This can only be done of Right and Left lasts)	$28.00
#601522R&L	Made on right and left lasts	$28.00
#60152212	Add for size 12 Straight last	$13.00

Straight Last Brogans

(This is not a stock shoe. Each pair will be made to order. Allow at least 30 days for delivery)
This shoe is useful from the 1830's through the Civil War period (Confederate Service as well as civilian impressions). This is a common outdoor type of shoe or work shoe for the first half of the 1800's. Our shoe is patterned from an original in our collection which is like the one found in front of Fort Jackson, Georgia.

Rough out shoes were the most common for men. Shoes were noted for being "uncommon" or "odd" if they were made with a smooth out leather. It was noted in period writings that Confederate troops were not charged for Russet shoes because they were so disliked. Even the slaves would blacken them with grease and soot so not to have the russet color.

These brogans are available in Black. There are no "lefts" and "rights" to these shoes. They are made on straight lasts. ( A "last" is a block or form over which a shoe upper is drawn and shaped.) Laces are provided. Since they are made of the finest natural leather they quickly form to whichever foot you regularly wear them. Soles are pegged as original.

Special Note: DO NOT PUT YOUR FEET CLOSE TO OR IN THE FIRE. You will bake the soles and cause them to dry up and crack open. At this point there is nothing to be done to repair them.

Sizes Available: 7D through 12D and 1/2 sizes available 7 1/2 through 11 1/2.

#101DRP Straight Last Brogans (Double Row Pegs) Black $299.00

We can not make wide sizes on a straight Last. We can make the upper like this bootee but it will need to be on the Right and Left pattern in order to get a wider width.

Item number	Shoe options	Price
#1003E	TRIPLE E WIDTH (This can only be done of Right and Left lasts)	$16.00
#10012UP	Add for size 12 Straight last	$16.00
#111	Attach heel plates	$20.00
#100PF	Add for period finish (black only)	$45.00

D. M. Winters Shoes

These shoes are copied from originals in our collection. D. M. Winters was a shoe maker in Alabama as early as the 1840's. These are straight last shoes in black rough out leather with a double row of pegging as the original shoes. They have a separate tongue that is stitched to the upper.

We have copied the stamps found in the sole of the original, which includes Winters own stamp as well as a rare sole tannery stamp. The sole tannery stamp is found in the heel of the shoe.

Tannery stamps are listed in period writings about tanneries but actually finding a stamp is very rare. This is the way that tanneries identified their products. At a time when cheap inferior leather was being sold as being from a reputable tannery; stamps were the only way to insure the seller that they were receiving was what they thought they were buying.

The tannery stamp is "Eaton, N.Y.", Tannery. I have no information to tell whether it was in Eaton, New York or if it was owned by someone named Eaton and just happened to be in New York.

The use of leather from New York or Pennsylvania would have not been that uncommon in the south. Since the south’s leather tanning ability according to the 1860 census was only 6.5% of all GNP of all leather produced in the US at that time, where as New York, Pennsylvania, and Massachusetts accounted for all most 70% of all leather tanned in the US.

Available in Sizes: 7 through 12, Half Sizes Available 7 1/2 through 11 1/2

#123 DM Winters Shoes $325.00

Item number	Shoe options	Price
#1003E	TRIPLE E WIDTH (This can only be done of Right and Left lasts)	$16.00
#10012UP	Add for size 12 Straight last	$16.00
#111	Attach heel plates	$20.00
#100PF	Add for period finish (black only)	$45.00

Footwear Accessories

#108 Period Insoles $19.95 per pair

These insoles are made, like the original examples in our collection, of sheet cork and heavy cotton drill with cotton taped edge. They prevent the friction which causes foot injury on the march. Specify.
Straight Last Version or Regular Version and size.

#109 Gray Wool Socks $16.95

One size fits most.

#120 Shoe Trees $4.95 per pair

You should keep shoe trees in your shoes when not in use to extend the life of the upper. Adjustable from size 6 to size 13.

#110 Heel Plates Only $12.00 These come in one size some bending may be required to fit the heel of your shoe.
These are patterned from an original heel plate dug in the site of Grant's 1862 camp in Grand Junction, Tennessee. They are the best ones we have seen. (Available in one size fits all. You may have to squeeze them in a vice to fit the shoe heel.)

#111 Heel Plates (Installed $20.00 per pair

The above #110 heel plates can be installed on your shoes at the time of purchase, if you desire them.

#112 Leather Shoe Laces $6.25 per pair

One pair of laces are provided with the purchase of shoes but if you wish to have a second pair they are available. Also for blanket roll ties, etc. Length is 36" Specify Black or Russet.

Crown soap- 4oz of soap in a tin container $10.95

We are now offering this period soap for cleaning leather. This is based off a period recipe for soap liked by harness makers. This is not like modern saddle soaps but instead is mostly made from cod oil. This type of soap will clean the leather but not be harsh enough to damage the leather. Leather items should be cleaned with soap several times a year in order to prevent the build up of dirt and other things that will damage the grain surface.

#PW124 Preservation Wax $16.95

This is specially designed product to give you maximum life out of your leather items. This is the clear wax, for use on russet items. This wax contains a natural mold and mildew inhibiter, along with protection from insect damage.

#BPW125 Black Preservation Wax $18.95

This is specially designed product to give you maximum life out of your leather items. Lamp black has been added to help maintain the black color of your leather items. This wax contains a natural mold and mildew inhibiter, along with protection from insect damage.

#113 Neatsfoot Oil 10 fl. oz. 100% pure $8.95

Leather Preservation Please follow this link for more information on the care and feed of leather.