In 1851 the army changed the standard shoe from a taller shoe to the shorter bootee that was issued until the Indian War pattern supersedes them. The pattern of 1851 bootees first issued was a sewn sole shoe with 4 holes in each side of the quarter and 2 holes in the vamp. When the great need of shoes for all the volunteers in the begging of the civil war the army and states began to purchase the pegged bootee but these purchased at a lower price. Pegging was away of attaching the sole with little wooden sticks called pegs.
These shoes were made on the new style of having right and left pattern lasts. Although wartime production shows that straight lasts (no right or left) were purchased and issued to the troops in the field. The last is the form on which the shoe is formed and is what determines the size of the shoe. The men's shoes of the time were made from rough (flesh) out leather that was blackened and finished and is also called black on the flesh or at times called "waxed leather or upper leather". Information from an 1860's book lists that if the leather was finished on the smooth side (grain) it was for women's shoes. There was not a dress brogan. This is a reenactorism and no basis in history. The shiny shoes seen in the pictures are those that have been polished, and this makes better sense since a scratch in the rough side can be repaired to the point it cannot be seen. On the other hand a scratch on the smooth side (grain) cannot be repaired and will always be present.
These are period definitions of bootee and brogan.
Bootee: A boot without a top, or a shoe made like a boot without a leg. I have also seen it defined as a not a tall as a boot but taller than shoe. More or Less it is a shoe that comes above the ankle. The total of both sewn and pegged bootees purchased by the Quartermaster dept. was 8,281,636, and this does not include state contracts.
Brogans: the word is used in the United States, to distinguish a heavy, coarse shoe, between a boot and a shoe. When you look at the original records brogans are noted differently and the price is much lower. The amount of brogans purchased by the Quartermaster dept. was 155,580. The number was way down from either style of the bootee, showing difference between qualities of the two types of footwear.
Clout-Nails: short nails with large heads for the soles of strong shoes. Also called hob nails.
We have handcrafted shoes in our work shops here at C & D Jarnagin for over 30 years. Our shoes are hand made of oak tanned American leather. Our shoes are made by time proven patterns and sewn with linen thread. Our footwear has delivered countless miles of satisfactory service. Judging from the shoes received by our repair service, nothing holds up like our shoes.
Leather Preservation Please follow this link for more information on the care and feed of leather.
Crown soap- 4oz of soap in a tin container $8.95
We are now offering this period soap for cleaning leather. This is based off a period recipe for soap liked by harness makers. This is not like modern saddle soaps but instead is mostly made from cod oil. This type of soap will clean the leather but not be harsh enough to damage the leather. Leather items should be cleaned with soap several times a year in order to prevent the build up of dirt and other things that will damage the grain surface.
#PW124 Preservation Wax $14.95
This is specially designed product to give you maximum life out of your leather items. This is the clear wax, for use on russet items. This wax contains a natural mold and mildew inhibiter, along with protection from insect damage.
#BPW125 Black Preservation Wax $16.95
This is specially designed product to give you maximum life out of your leather items. Lamp black has been added to help maintain the black color of your leather items. This wax contains a natural mold and mildew inhibiter, along with protection from insect damage.
#113 Neatsfoot Oil 8 fl. oz. 100% pure $6.95This is the standard version of the Jefferson bootee adopted in 1851. These were made with a sewn sole and came slightly above the ankle with 4 lace hole in each side of the quarter and 2 in the vamp(on the tounge of the shoe). During the Civil War this style was the most common shoe produced with war time total being 6,082,297 being purchased by the U.S. Quartermaster Dept. I have also found a Marine contact for this type of shoe.
This bootee pattern was taken from the article in Company of Military Historians, Summer 1995. They are made on left and right lasts of oak tanned leather (rough side out) dyed black in color. After some wear the upper will take on the classic shovel toe appearance. Laces are provided. The soles are made of one layer of prime sole leather. The soles are welted and sewn. Heels have hand set square nails. This is the standard shoe of the Army and Marines before the civil war broke out. Even after the war the Quartermaster department still contacted for more of these shoes than the pegged version.
| Item number | Shoe options | Price |
|---|---|---|
#1003E |
TRIPLE E WIDTH (This can only be done of Right and Left lasts) |
$16.00 |
#10012UP |
Add for size 12 and above |
$16.00 |
#111 |
Attach heel plates |
$20.00 |
#100PF |
Add for period finish |
$45.00 |
The pegged version of the standard bootee was a war time necessary exception to the standard shoe due to the fact so many shoe were need for the troops in the field. These were purchased at a lower price than the sewn sole bootee. The total number of these shoe purchased during the war by the U.S. quartermaster was 2,199,339. That is a lot of shoes but nowhere near the total of the sewn sole style.
These were made with a pegged sole and came slightly above the ankle with 4 lace hole in each side of the quarter and 2 in the vamp(on the tounge of the shoe). We manufacture an especially heavy duty model. Jefferson bootee (brogans) are made on left and right lasts of oak tanned leather (rough side out) dyed black in color. After some wear the upper will take on the classic shovel toe appearance. Laces are provided. The soles are made of two layers of prime sole leather. The soles are pegged with wooden pegs as originals.
Special Note: DO NOT PUT YOUR FEET CLOSE TO OR IN THE FIRE. You will bake the soles and cause them to dry up and crack open. At this point there is nothing to be done to repair them.
Brogan leather may be wet and dried indefinitely so long as heat is NOT applied. The leather will soften for great comfort if you apply shoe oil. Keep your shoes clean and apply shoe oil on a regular basis. Shoe blacking may be used as well. Keep shoe trees in these and you will double the life of your brogans.
Sizes Available: Men's Size 7D through 14D, 1/2 sizes available from 7 1/2 - 12 1/2, or 3E sizes from 8EEE through 12 1/2EEE
#100 US M1851 Jefferson Brogans $299.00
| Item number | Shoe options | Price |
|---|---|---|
#1003E |
TRIPLE E WIDTH (This can only be done of Right and Left lasts) |
$16.00 |
#10012UP |
Add for size 12 Straight last |
$16.00 |
#111 |
Attach heel plates |
$20.00 |
#100PF |
Add for period finish |
$45.00 |
We are only make smooth out shoes upon special request. Please call or write for more information.
(This is not a stock shoe. Each pair will be made to order. Allow at least 30 days for delivery)
This shoe is useful from the 1830's through the Civil War period (Confederate Service as well as civilian impressions). This is
a common shoe which meant there was no right or left to the shoe. This was an inexpensive shoe sold to common people hense that is where the term common shoe comes from. Our shoe is patterned from an original in our collection which is like the one found in front of Fort Jackson, Georgia.
The
men's shoes of the time were made from rough (flesh) out leather that was
blackened and finished and is also called black on the flesh or waxed leather. Information
from an 1860's book lists that if the leather was finished on the smooth side
(grain) it was for women's shoes. It
was noted in period writings that Confederate troops were not charged for Russet
shoes (or slave shoes) because they were so disliked. Even the slaves would blacken them with
grease and soot so not to have the russet color. Negro brogans are listed in US purchases and with the price being cheaper they may have also been russet in color.
These brogans are available in Black (rough out) and Russet (rough out only). There are no "lefts" and "rights" to these shoes. They are made on straight lasts. ( A "last" is a block or form over which a shoe upper is drawn and shaped.) Laces are provided. Since they are made of the finest natural leather they quickly form to whichever foot you regularly wear them. Soles are pegged as original.
Special Note: DO NOT PUT YOUR FEET CLOSE TO OR IN THE FIRE. You will bake the soles and cause them to dry up and crack open. At this point there is nothing to be done to repair them.
Sizes Available: 7D through 12D and 1/2 sizes available 7 1/2 through 11 1/2.
We can not make wide sizes on a straight Last. We can make the upper like this bootee but it will need to be on the Right and Left pattern in order to get a wider width.
| Item number | Shoe options | Price |
|---|---|---|
#1003E |
TRIPLE E WIDTH (This can only be done of Right and Left lasts) |
$16.00 |
#10012UP |
Add for size 12 Straight last |
$16.00 |
#111 |
Attach heel plates |
$20.00 |
#100PF |
Add for period finish (black only) |
$45.00 |
We are only make smooth out shoes upon special request. Please call or write for more information.
D. M. Winters Shoes
These shoes are copied from originals in our collection. D. M. Winters was a shoe maker in Alabama as early as the 1840's. These are straight last shoes in black rough out leather with a double row of pegging as the original shoes. They have a separate tongue that is stitched to the upper.
We have copied the stamps found in the sole of the original, which includes Winters own stamp as well as a rare sole tannery stamp. The sole tannery stamp is found in the heel of the shoe.
Tannery stamps are listed in period writings about tanneries but actually finding a stamp is very rare. This is the way that tanneries identified their products. At a time when cheap inferior leather was being sold as being from a reputable tannery; stamps were the only way to insure the seller that they were receiving was what they thought they were buying.
The tannery stamp is "Eaton, N.Y.", Tannery. I have no information to tell whether it was in Eaton, New York or if it was owned by someone named Eaton and just happened to be in New York.
The use of leather from New York or Pennsylvania would have not been that uncommon in the south. Since the south’s leather tanning ability according to the 1860 census was only 6.5% of all GNP of all leather produced in the US at that time, where as New York, Pennsylvania, and Massachusetts accounted for all most 70% of all leather tanned in the US.
Available in Sizes: 7 through 12, Half Sizes Available 7 1/2 through 11 1/2
#123 DM Winters Shoes $375.00
| Item number | Shoe options | Price |
|---|---|---|
#1003E |
TRIPLE E WIDTH (This can only be done of Right and Left lasts) |
$16.00 |
#10012UP |
Add for size 12 Straight last |
$16.00 |
#111 |
Attach heel plates |
$20.00 |
#100PF |
Add for period finish (black only) |
$45.00 |
We are only make smooth out shoes upon special request. Please call or write for more information.
#JS6030 Jefferson shoe $320.00
These are copied from a drawing of the shoes Thomas Jefferson wore at his inauguration in 1801. These are a shoe that comes 2” above the ankle, as described in a book on riflemen printed in 1812. This must have been a common type of work shoe since I have seen styles similar as early as the mid 1700’s. These are listed as shoes sometimes and other as boots, but the truth is they are bootee which means taller than a shoe but shorter than a boot. These would have been made with a welted and sewn sole since pegged sole did not come in till 1818. We do not make these shoes in smoothout. These are offered in the correct waxed leather or rough out finished to look smooth.
Available in Black
Available in Size 7 through 12 and Half sizes 7 1/2 through 11 1/2
| Item number | Shoe options | Price |
|---|---|---|
TRIPLE E WIDTH (This can only be done of Right and Left lasts) |
$28.00 |
|
Made on right and left lasts |
$28.00 |
We are only make smooth out shoes upon special request. Please call or write for more information
These are a gray wool sock..
One size fits most.
Crown soap- 4oz of soap in a tin container $10.95
We are now offering this period soap for cleaning leather. This is based off a period recipe for soap liked by harness makers. This is not like modern saddle soaps but instead is mostly made from cod oil. This type of soap will clean the leather but not be harsh enough to damage the leather. Leather items should be cleaned with soap several times a year in order to prevent the build up of dirt and other things that will damage the grain surface.
#PW124 Preservation Wax $16.95
This is specially designed product to give you maximum life out of your leather items. This is the clear wax, for use on russet items. This wax contains a natural mold and mildew inhibiter, along with protection from insect damage.
#BPW125 Black Preservation Wax $18.95
This is specially designed product to give you maximum life out of your leather items. Lamp black has been added to help maintain the black color of your leather items. This wax contains a natural mold and mildew inhibiter, along with protection from insect damage.
#113 Neatsfoot Oil 10 fl. oz. 100% pure $8.95
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